Tales of Survival

Talk on the beach yesterday afternoon at Kanaha was full of tales of survival. The surf was VERY large, still in the mast and half + range at Uppers, mast-high at Lowers. Often there was no gap between Uppers and Lowers to even get out. A complete close-out wall of white water 8 - 10 feet high or more. A lot of people tried to get out and failed. Some people got out and came back wide-eyed, with scary tales to tell of huge waves and light or no wind. Me? It was too light and too big for me. Decided it just wasn't worth it.

Today was another story. Surf was still big - head high to logo high at Lowers and mast + high at Uppers. Wind filled in better to the 5.5ish range most of the day. Caught a few sweet waves at Lowers until the crowds got too scary. Second session went to Uppers and had fun getting my adrenaline going with a few big, meaty monsters. Started getting crowded up there too, with both windsurfers and a pack of kiters. I think a lot of Hookipa regulars are still sailing Kanaha today since Hookipa was probably mast and half high.

This swell is on the decline, but we'll still have some waves. Reinforcements, though not as large, are on their way. Looks like the wind might stick around through the week if we're lucky.